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The Kremlin and Red Square (1156 - 1850) Moscow, Russia
Moscow's very heart is of red brick. It stirs your imagination the moment you see it for the first time. Just fancy, these walls were built in the end of the 15th century by the order of Tsar Ivan the Third! What's more - people have been living here since 1147, or even earlier.
The first written record of Moscow dates back to 1147, when Prince of Suzdal Yuri Dolgoruky (Long-armed) first visited a small settlement on the high bank of the river - now it is called the Moskva - and the History began.
Ever since that time the Moscow Kremlin has been the centre of Russian statehood and the residence of Russian Tsars and patriarchs of Russian Orthodox Church. It was first rebuilt by Dmitry Donskoy - its walls were of limestone - Moscow became "white-stone" at that time. In Ivan the Third's time the Kremlin acquired its present appearance. Peter the First was treacherous enough to transfer the capital of Russia to newly built St.Petersburg. But according to the tradition, all Russian Tsars were coronated in Moscow. In 1917the Soviet government transferred the Russian capital back to Moscow and settled down to live in the Kremlin. Thus it became some sort of "closed territory" where only those who lived or worked there could be admitted. It was only in 1955 that its museums were open to all. In 1992 the Kremlin became the residence of Russian President and it still remains.
It's really hard to believe, but only half-century ago cars and trams ran across Red Square and hundreds of people made a long queue in order to see Lenin, who is still "more alive than any other living". And to be immured into the Kremlin wall after death was most prestigious. While the country remained not only Christian, but also Orthodox. Russia's soul has never been in peace with Russia's mind. The evidences of such paradoxes you can find everywhere.
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Oak walls of the Kremlin had used to be burnt, white-stone walls had used to become dilapidated soon until Ivan III Vasilievich who founded out the monocracy and grandeur of Russia initiated reinforcement and ornamentation of the Kremlin. |
It was decided to find the masters abroad, in Venice. Finally an ambassador found a famous architect who agreed to move to unfamiliar Moscow 'for 10 rubles per month which comprised 2 pounds (800g) of silver'. It turned to be Aristotel Fiorovanti, a famous jack-of-all-trades. He set the production of excellent bricks for the Kremlin walls, he used to cast the bells and mint the coins. He was an expert in casting cannons and he was good at handling the cannons so that he participated in Ivan III campaign against Tver. The Kremlin area surrounded by new walls used to change its image, little by little getting rid of private dilapidated buildings. Finally when Peter I came to power the Kremlin completely escaped from remaining boyars’ houses as well as from the sugar refining plant, which had been the first in Russia where the Arsenal was built later. The Kremlin started to assume a familiar form for us. At that time corduroys in the Kremilin and Kitay-Gorod were replaced by stone pavements. The Red Square (former Market and Fire) has experienced much during its existing. 
At the time of unrest the rebels were trampling on Christian sacred objects there. Vasily Ivanovich Shuisky sentenced as an impostor was about to be executed at the Red Square. After it there could be seen Lzhedmitry’s dead body. At the times of Peter I shooters were rebelling at the square and after a couple of months they were walking with heads fallen carrying axes and scaffolds for themselves. At the same time the Red Square was the main city market. Under the Kremlin there were a lot of tents and booths along with a row of wine-cellars comprised over two hundred at the end of the XVIIth century. When Alexey Mikhailovich was in power cannons were set opposite a trade row. The most dissolute tavern in Moscow 'Under cannons' was situated not far.
In place of the present GUM there was a so-called 'city' – a premise of old trade rows. Designed by an architect O. Bove it was decorated with a large colonnade from the Red Square side (called just 'pillars' by folk). The Red Square environment was brightened up with an incessant trade 'in pillars' with rasstegais (open 'unbuttoned' patties), pancakes, 'sparrows' (small pancakes fried in oil), hearth pies. Trade in old rows lively resembled a remarkable image of an orient bazaar. Crowds of consumers had to walk alone narrow passages. Salesmen standing at the entry of booths urged people to come praising the goods with heart-rending voice. Shy villagers and timid consumers were forcedly pushed into a booth in order to buy anything (bad-quality products as a rule). It's noteworthy that a usual Moscow-dweller found comfortable such situation as he liked the 'city' and went shopping only at that place. Going to the 'city' and feeling like a hunter-rifleman in a snipe morass he knew what to expect and was prepared to fight. At the end of XIX century Upper Trade Rows were built in place of old rows under the guidance of architect A. Pomerantsev. In 30-s years of the XX century an immense building was about to be destroyed in order to enlarge the Red Square. In 90-s years it was proposed to allocate 'a temple of culture' with theatrical stages, lecture-rooms and grounds for children holidays inside the building.
The Pokrovsky Cathedral or the Saint Basil's Cathedral (as more habitual) has been adorning the Red Square since 1555 symbolizing the final victory over malicious Tatars. Russian craftsmen Barma and Posnik expressed a public exultation related to the conquest of the Kazan kingdom. The cathedral is unique due to its quaint-fairy silhouette and a multitude of opening beautiful sights. A short-range round-way is considered to be the most effective. You are fascinated and delighted with a close-up of light drums, patterned domes and marquees. Quaintly-twisted colourful braids, bright majolica frames, merlons and bulbs are united into a magnificent kaleidoscope. Do not miss spectacular perspectives of Kremlin towers appearing in arcs of the cathedral. In ancient times when the Red Square was not so official there was a constant place of selling soaked peas not far from the Saint Basil's Cathedral. A sentimental Muscovite paid a sixpence and a market-woman threw a handful of peas on the ground where immediately plenty of doves congregated. The cathedral had a strange neighbour, a tavern called 'Neugasimy' ('Inextinguishable'). Situated in a dull cellar behind the cathedral it was lightened with dim lamps day or night. In this semi-darkness stolen goods were actively sold off and caught thieves told the truth that they were not able to recognize faces. Opposite the cathedral on the other side of the square there is a Historical museum (architect V. Shervud, engineer A.Semenov, 1875-1883). An outward appearance of the building is not considered to be well turned: too subdivided pattern of decorative details looks a little inferior in the vicinity of the Saint Basil's Cathedral. The Historical museum has been linked with a former State Duma (architect D. Chichagov, 1890-1892) by Voskrenskiye Gates. Built in 1669 a Chapel of Miraculous Icon of Iver Our Lady besides the Gates had become one of the main sacred places of the capital. Among Christian Orthodox Russians neither a simple farmer nor a Russian tsar had ever visited Moscow without prime bowing to the Miraculous Icon, not speaking about a deep obeisance of the Protectress of all Christians by Muscovites. In 'red' 20-30-years of the XXth century Voskrenskiye Gates, the Iver Chapel and the Kazan Cathedral were destroyed and rebuilt again in 1997. Like in ancient times testimonial prayers are offered up in the Iver Chapel nowadays and beggars accurately choosing 'right objects' roam nearby. A time sign: in some metres of a Chapel entry there is a so-called 'zero-kilometre' plate where excited people crowd day or night and unceasing hubbub along with coins jingle can be heard. About 140-150 years ago Muscovites used to entertain merrily and artless. People from aristocratic circles attended balls and theatres, however plain folk had rest in popular public theatres or circuses. By the way the oldest circus is situated on Vozdvizhenka but in 80-s years of the XIX century a famous circus on Tsvetnoy boulevard was renowned. Socialising in Manezh was especially popular among Muscovites. On Christmas, Shrovetide and Easter Manezh was decorated with flags, garlands, and people enjoyed acrobatic jugglers, rhymes shows, and choirs when a lively trade of toys and sweets was organised in the building. There were held flower exhibitions, exhibitions of dogs-hunters, people rode bicycles appeared not long time ago. A so-called exercirhouse was built in 1817 as a place of carrying out manoeuvres in wintertime. A talented engineer Betankur offered an incredible in those times project of covering over a bay 45 metres wide without any base construction. On massive wooden rafters there were laid sacks full of poor tobacco (makhorka) in order to protect wood from humidity and wooden engravers. However in 1917 revolutionary sailors found and smoked makhorka. Wooden rafters remained without a simple but very effective protection. Later this old construction under an enormous load caused a reasonable concern among experts but it was destroyed by fire, a traditional misfortune in Moscow. Gaped window holes looked like gigantic arcs still remind of Osip Bove work, who designed an original décor of the building. 
